Boston-on-the-sea

Yep, Boston is on the sea.

So I started my day with a walk along the harbour front (the tourist side with hotels, well defined paths and expensive cruise boats). The sun was shining, I wasn't in a hurry... let's just say it was very nice. There are also a few interesting buildings there, let's try to put a picture...

There. 

You will notice the control tower of Logan Airport at the back.

The building in red bricks supposed to look like a cruise ship is a hotel.

Mast, USS Constitution - Remark the "Don't tread on me" flag

Now this is the USS Constitution, also known as Old Ironside for the thickness of its oak hull. I've had no less than 3 different stories of how she came by that name, but they all agree it was because the British cannonballs couldn't pierce the hull: they would bounce off or stay in-bedded.

USS Constitution - cannon deck

USS Constitution - everything to load your cannon

The ship is on dry dock, so the masts are lowered and the cannons are off-loaded. It is still a commissioned ship of the US navy, so visitors have to pass ID controls and everything, and the guide is a sailor on active duty.

This is taking way too long to write with the tablet, so I'll finish later. Above, a statue of Poe, under, a nice house in Beacon Hill.

BSO

Better known as the Boston Symphony Orchestra.

Beyond the fabulousness of the music, I was astonished at how well-behaved the audience was. No clapping between movements. Waiting for the time between movements to cough, move, make noise. (T'was almost funny.) 

And of course, I loved that they plan ahead and make affordable tickets available for the younger generation.

Freedom!

Today was such a long day. 

So after my cup of tea in a brightly striped mug, I caught the subway (paying the fare and getting change with a dollar coin) and got to Boston Common. A common was a communal area where people would graze cattle, meet, and so on. Boston Common nowadays is an open park, by which I mean there isn't a barrier around it.

Boston Common, from the top (and the North)

It's also the beginning of the Freedom Trail, a red line either painted or inserted in red bricks on the sidewalk. The Trail links monuments and landmarks that trace the beginning of the Independence War. I met a few French tourists looking for it, but I was on my way to a tour bus that would tell me the same -with more commentaries and less walking.

The Freedom Trail at the USS Constitution yard

 

Our driver, Franky, was also the tour guide. He had plenty of anecdotes in addition to the historical and touristic explanations. We would stop and step down from the bus for a few minutes in strategic places: Harvard,  (yes, I went to Harvard), Lexington, Concord, Quincy Market, the USS Constitution (Old Ironside, back on that tomorrow), Fenway Park (baseball, shudders). We also crossed the finish line of the Boston marathon (please insert appropriate bragging). 

Harvard Square

Lexington

Concord

Concord - snow and ice

USS Constitution in dry dock

We ran a bit late, so I had to rush home, by an overpriced USB charger on the way, change,  discover the green subway fork to the Symphony Hall stopped running for the day, find an alternate option, and rush again. 

My seat was extremely comfortable, plenty of legroom, and I had to take my blanket* out partway for the cold. And the music... I'm definitely a fan of Haydn. But I hated Hartmann. Beethoven was good too. So that was the Boston Symphony Orchestra, led by guest conductor Vladimir Jurowski. 

Considering the concert started at 2 AM for my body clock, I'm proud of almost not falling asleep.

And now in bed and sleep...

*kidding. My shawl.

Boston!

Here I am, landed safely in the States!

The logic at the airport is that if there is a big red sign saying EXIT, you shouldn't go that way. If they say "Visitors", you go anyway where they say "US citizens", and you follow "Visa" (not the credit card) even if you don't need one. Everything is logical.

I took the Silver Line, the free bus shuttle that takes you to the paying subway. Of course there is no ticket machine between your shuttle and the right platform, where your train is arriving. Sorry Charlie*. 

So I've cheated my way to my lodgings, I've unpacked my suitcases, and I take my adapter to plug my phone in... and realize it's a UK adapter. I know what I'll shop for first.

So. It's morning now. I got a good night's sleep, I'm having a cup of tea, then I'll go forth for today's adventures!

*Charlie is the nickname of the Boston transport system.

Budapest - from wooden carvings to hot bath

We started the day by walking a bit to a subway station by the parliament. The city is dotted with bronze statues representing famous Hungarian figures (like Imre Nagy, the man on the bridge) or typical Hungarian citizen (there is a women with an umbrella, a policeman from the 1900's...).

The man on the bridge is Imre Nagy.

We arrived behind the parliament and stopped the time to snap a few pictures.

The parliament

Our day's visit was to begin on Castle Hill, on the Buda side of the river:

Castle Hill viewed from the parliament - Photo courtesy J.

The parliament viewed from Castle Hill - Photo courtesy J.

We went down from one end of Castle Hill to the other, and we arrived at Buda Palace, which houses the Hungarian National Gallery. We started with the gothic period with wooden paintings and carvings. We were alone in that part of the gallery, which was due either to the subject matter, the early hour on a Sunday morning, or the fact that to accede this place, one has to cross the museum shop or to go up one floor, cross the late Renaissance art, avoid going into the gothic winged alterpieces to go down another flight of stairs. All that without clear directions.

Maria gravida, or Mary at the Spinning Wheel from Németújvá 

St. Dorothy - Photo courtesy J.

Virgin and Child from Szlatvin - Photo courtesy J.

Maybe it was the lack of people, but it was my favorite part of the visit. (It might also have been due to the fact that the 19th and 20th century paintings didn't appeal to me.)

There was also some fun stuff under to cupola: a temporary exhibition with flying people.

Photo courtesy J.

We finally left to fill our hungry bellies and found a cosy place, a bit trendy, a bit expensive for Budapest but very good... the Boom and Brass.

After a leisurely meal, we went home and prepared to test the thermal bath of the city.

The Szechenyi Bath are the biggest and the best-known. Outside hot bath, whirlpool, sauna, hammam, pools of different temperature, and even a long swimming-pool! So, you think outdoor bath are fun? Yep, right until you have to access them in your wet swimsuit through the cold outside air. It seems suddenly less fun, but the warmth seeps straight through your body... and you try not to think to the part when you will have to leave again.

Budapest

Today was my first day in Budapest!

The journey went smoothly: I got my plane with plenty of time, anyway it was late, so we landed half an hour past the expected time of arrival, but I had plenty of time to buy my subway tickets and our tourist 3-day cards before J. arrived. Yep, not traveling alone this time.

The weather was beautiful, we found the address of our rented flat quickly, we got the keys without trouble, we dropped our bags and started exploring.

Renting a flat is a cheaper option than an hotel, especially if you are staying more than three days and if there are several people in your party. In addition to that, since you can cook your own food, you save compared to eating out.

The flat we chose had two separate rooms, was on a first floor (the British first floor, the one above the ground level, not the American first floor); to access the different flats, one goes up the stairs, enter the inside balcony that runs around the interior courtyard, and reaches one's door. I really love that.

The central courtyard - Photo courtesy J.

Our building, although it looked old and a bit run-down, was very well situated, between two major subway lines and not that far from a third.

Our first visit was to St. Stephen's Basilica. It is at the end of our street, and walking an equal distance in the other direction would have led us to the opera, which we didn't get to visit.

The basilica is quite nice, with an interior typically baroque and rococo -although contrary to other places, I found it quite harmonious.

I particularly liked the chandeliers - Photo courtesy J.

The cupola - Photo courtesy J.

Actually, we went first up the cupola, on the observation platform to see the city.

Photo courtesy J.

The main relic of the basilica is the mummified hand of St. Stephen, which we couldn't see that day (but we went back a few days later). The fist is covered by a rich sleeve and is set in a huge reliquary.

After the visit we walked to the Danube, passing by a bridal couple.

A bridal couple walking toward St. Stephen's Basilica - Photo courtesy J.

We crossed the Danube, walked a bit, saw the night was falling, crossed back, and went looking for a place to eat.

Photo courtesy J.

J. remembered a good place to eat a goulash, and we went to the Bazilika restaurant, nearby St. Stephen, obviously, where we got a delicious goulash soup and a very good dessert (home-made strudel...!)

A very good first day.

Home sweet home

Day 18: York to Paris
Km driven:748

Roadtrip total: 4,962 km... not quite 5,000, after all!

Time to go home! 

We left York early, making sure to check that the car was ready after its heavy summer work. We were lucky with the traffic and arrived early at Dover and its ferry.

After a quiet crossing in the sunshine, we disembarked and were confronted by tourists arriving in France... driving on the wrong side of the road! 

But we arrived safely in Paris. 

So now... time to sort through the pictures, and to publish them!